Cabbage is a cool season vegetable suitable for both spring and autumn. See our cabbage growing guide, which contains instructions on how to grow and grow this vitamin-rich, hardy, leafy vegetable!
Before planting out, the soil should be trodden firm – as though preparing a lawn – and then raked over. The cabbage head makes the plant very top-heavy and the roots, which are strong enough to grow through the compaction, must be anchored as firmly as possible. If you plant out in blocks at 45cm (18in) spacing, they soon cover the ground. This makes smaller cabbages but looks better and stops weeds.
Although summer cabbages such as ‘Greyhound’ are appreciably fastermaturing than their winter counterparts such as ‘January King’ or Savoys, all cabbages need quite a long growing season. This requires some planning to fit them into the garden scheme of things, but is of great value in winter as they can stand ready for eating all winter if need be. Brassicas – the family that all types of cabbage belong to, as do cauliflowers, radishes, swedes, turnips and kohlrabi – all share the same preference for well-drained, well-manured soil in an open position.
Conventional wisdom says you should grow cabbages on a piece of ground that was previously used for legumes (see page 293), which should have been freshly manured before the legumes were sown and whose roots will have left nitrogen in the soil via their nodules. However, all brassicas are very responsive to a fresh dressing of garden compost when planted, so any well-drained, rich soil will work, regardless of what has been grown previously.
Winter cabbages come in a number of shapes and forms. Until the sixteenth century, it seems likely that all cabbages were loose-leaf, like our spring greens or what the Americans call ‘collards’. The round-headed form was first described in the sixteenth century and the first mention of a red one in Britain was in 1570 – so we can reasonably assume that this was when it first arrived here – almost certainly from Germany. By the nineteenth century, breeding had become extensive and sophisticated – there were Savoys with wrinkled leaves, Brunswicks, conical cabbages and drum-head, round, red, smooth whites, green, summer, spring and autumn cabbages – the range was huge.
We do not grow anything like a comprehensive selection but I do like to have some (and there are hundreds of different varieties and hybrids available) of each of the following:
- Savoys are familiar from their crinkly, blueish leaves. They are hardy and very good to eat.
- ‘January King’ have a slightly purple tinge to their leaves and again are hardy and have very good flavour.
- Red cabbages are very tough with thicker leaves and are relatively untroubled by cabbage butterflies or slugs. As well as being good to eat (especially with game).
Family: |
Brassicaceae |
Growing zones: |
N/A |
Growing season(s): |
cool
weather: spring or fall |
Spacing: |
18 inches |
Start indoors or direct sow: |
start
indoors or purchase transplants |
Indoor sowing date |
6
weeks before transplant (9 weeks before average last frost) |
Earliest spring outdoor planting: |
3
weeks before average last frost |
Soil temperature: |
N/A |
Fall planting: |
start
indoors 12 weeks before average first frost; transplant 6 weeks before
average first frost |
Sun needs: |
6+ hours |
Water needs: |
moderate |
Harvest category |
one
harvest for large head, though some varieties produce small heads after the
primary head is harvested |
Keep in Mind Tip: |
Because
of their long growing season, you may find cabbages still growing in the heat
of early summer. Think ahead and plant a vertical crop on the south or west
side to provide shade. |
Snapshot |
Many small-space gardeners skip cabbage
because one large plant produces only one head. But for those with a little
more space, cabbage is one of the most fun crops to grow, and it provides
stunning beauty in the garden. |
Starting |
Cabbage is best planted as a transplant,
whether grown in spring or fall. Start seeds indoors or purchase transplants
from a local garden center. Plant transplants a little deeper than they were
in their containers, to where the leaves touch the soil level. Cabbage
requires a neutral pH soil in a highly fertile location; plant it where other
brassicas have not grown for at least the previous three years. |
Growing |
Cabbage requires consistent moisture, but it
doesn’t like too much. Mulch well and keep irrigation consistent, especially
during dry spells. Add supplemental liquid fertilizer such as fish or kelp
emulsion a few times during the growing season if growth seems to lag. Shade
plants during times of high heat. |
Harvesting and Storing |
Harvest cabbage when the heads are large but
still firm by cutting the base with a sharp knife. Unless garden space is at
a premium, leave the outer leaves; many varieties will produce smaller heads
(similar in size to Brussels sprouts). Store in a refrigerator or a root
cellar between 33° and 45°. |
Common Problem |
Cabbage worms prey
on cabbage plants of all sizes. Cover transplants with floating row covers
immediately upon transplant. Otherwise, handpick worms or spray the organic
insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis at the first sign of damage. |
0 Comments